Step by Step... approaching to Thanos work.

[madpcsupreme]

Hi, I am now collecting 19" monitors and thinking that I'll want to do a triple screen setup. I believe that will give me 16lbsX3 +18lbs stand = 66lbs weight in the front. I have a idea of moving the center point forward 2" to balance the weight... I havn't start to build the frame yet... I am wondering if I have the right concept.

moving the center point...

Thanks,
Ray

P.S. Did any1 notice that there is a new racing sim coming out soon? the Need for Speed shift... the previiews are very promising...

[tronicgr]

Hi, I am now collecting 19" monitors and thinking that I'll want to do a triple screen setup. I believe that will give me 16lbsX3 +18lbs stand = 66lbs weight in the front. I have a idea of moving the center point forward 2" to balance the weight... I havn't start to build the frame yet... I am wondering if I have the right concept.

MFS_lean_front3.jpg

Thanks,
Ray

P.S. Did any1 notice that there is a new racing sim coming out soon? the Need for Speed shift... the previiews are very promising...

Hi Ray,

You might need to reinforce more the long tubbings in case you try to add more weight to the standard joyrider design. Otherwise you will see much bending on the cymbals. I'd suggest metal supports, or use metal tubbing (with less diameter of course). It depends of how easy is for you to work metal parts and use the right tools, to make it more rigid!

And there is not only the static load of the LCD's but also the dynamic load (mass inertia) that add's up during motion. Bouncing effect during sudden pitch motion will be introduced and it may became annoying. On the other hand a small bouncing rate will help you pass in the motion a percentance of heave vibrations!!!

Good luck on your project!

Regards, Thanos

[gbarrena]

hola,
hace poco descubri esto de los simuladores hechos en casa y la verda
esque estoy pensando en hacer uno.
tengo varias dudas y me seria de gran ayuda si me las pudieses solucionar.

la primera es sobre el tamaño del simulador. el ancho y lo largo que es.
Tambien viendo la web de thanos en la seccion de pvc, ha hecho un esquema
de los cortes pero dice ke las medidas estan en milimetros, cosa que me
extraña.

por ultimo el tema de la controladora que hay que hacer para procesar la
informacion. ¿Por cuanto sale esta ultima parte? y tmben si ay alguna otra
posibilidad.

espero no aberte agobiado con tanta pregunta, gracias de antemano..

[knob2001]

Buenas gbarrena...

(Sorry about talking in spanish, dudes, if anyone is interested about it, i will translate the important parts.)

Bienvenido al foro, lo primero.

Vamos por partes:
El cacharro es grande. Y grande significa que si sumas el largo de la pieza más larga (159 centímetros) y le sumas unos 40cm más por cada lado, te sale al menos 2 metros y pico de largo por al menos 1,70 de ancho. De alto, más o menos 1,60.
Si estás pensando en meterlo en una habitación pequeña... cuidado.

Las medidas efectivamente están en mm, pero deberían ser en cm. Cuando compares los largos de Thanos con los largos de los planos originales del Joyrider para seguir la construcción te darás cuenta.

Te recomiendo que los cortes no los hagas de forma manual porque cada centímetro cuenta... y aunque tengas un pulso firme luego no encajarán como deben. (Te lo digo por experiencia).
Por cierto, los anchos de algunos tubos deberían ser más gruesos. Si lo haces como las fotos de Thanos tendrás que reforzar algunas partes después como él.

**** Thanos: Help us. This guy is following your PVC parts map (placed at your site), but the sizes are in mm when they must be in cm. He asked me about it, but the common sense says it must be cm (You can try it in milimeters, but you will get a Super-mini joyrider for your pet!!!)
****

La controladora:
Son dos circuitos diferentes.
1- El interface
2- El puente-H
Para el interface no hay alternativa, lo siento. Si tienes una insoladora te saldrá muy barato, si no, tendrás que conseguir que alguien te haga el circuito impreso, y eso no se cuanto cuesta, la verdad.
Para el puente-H hay algunas cosas, pero lo más barato de nuevo es hacerte tú el tuyo según los planos de Thanos. Las otras alternativas son en plan Pololu (mira mis posts anteriores) y los Parallax's HB-25 entre otros.

En fin, solo comentarte que tengas paciencia porque es un proyecto grande, pero toda la documentación está por aquí y hay un montón de gente dispuesta a ayudar.

Un saludo.
knob2001.

[gbarrena]

muchas gracias por resolverme las dudas, la verdad es que el simulador no parece tan grande en los videos jajj!
habra que pensar donde meterlo y sobre todo combencer a mis padres...

[gbarrena]

Podrias decirme decirme el tipo de pvc que deberia usar para cada parte y cuanto comprar???
Tambien necesitaria que me aclararas el problema que tuviste cn las juntas de los angulos. Por lo que entendido es que no tenias para el grosor del pvc??

[watkykjy]

Hi Knob2001,

Myself and a friend have got together to start building the exact same sim ad you and Tonic has, except that we will be building ours from 50mm square tubing metal. What I would really like to ask you however, is just a 2 line explanation of how the electronics fits together. In other words, I have a PC with a game on it, which connects to some kind of interface, which then goes to another interface that drives the motors, or something like that? I have downloaded all the PCB's for Tonic's AMC controller, and have a relative good understanding of how the Atmega chipset works, etc, but would just like to get a clear overview of all the components involved end to end, to make sure I have everything. We will probably start building some time this week, and put up a project page as well as soon as it's kicked off

Thank you very very much, looking forward to your reply!

[knob2001]

Hi...

gbarrena -> (Spanish again... sorry) Me imagino que tendrás los manuales del Joyrider, ¿verdad? Yo lo que hice fue hacer los cortes como tronicGr tiene en su página y luego tirarme un buen rato marcando cada pieza.
El tipo de PVC es de "presión", es un poco más gordito que el normal, y creo que bastante más oscuro. Debe poner por algún lado la cantidad de Bar que puede soportar, y eso te dirá la presión a la que se le puede someter.

El tema de los diámetros... si te fijas en el cacharro de tronicGr, verás que tiene unas barras laterales para fortalecer la estructura. Yo seguí su consejo y compré los tubos para esa parte más anchos, y así que me ahorré el tener que fortalecer.

El problema que tuve con las juntas no fue con los grosores, sino con las juntas que encontré. Al pasar de cierto diámetro, las únicas juntas que pude encontrar después de ir a un montón de tiendas especializadas fue del tipo A-B (entrada-salida) y no A-A (entrada-entrada). Por eso tuve que recortar casi todas las piezas para que casaran por el lado de salida. Entrada significa que la junta se introduce por dentro de la tubería, y salida significa que la junta abraza por fuera la tubería.

Bueno, cualquier pregunta estoy por aquí antes o después...

Hi Knob2001,

Myself and a friend have got together to start building the exact same sim ad you and Tonic has, except that we will be building ours from 50mm square tubing metal. What I would really like to ask you however, is just a 2 line explanation of how the electronics fits together. In other words, I have a PC with a game on it, which connects to some kind of interface, which then goes to another interface that drives the motors, or something like that? I have downloaded all the PCB's for Tonic's AMC controller, and have a relative good understanding of how the Atmega chipset works, etc, but would just like to get a clear overview of all the components involved end to end, to make sure I have everything. We will probably start building some time this week, and put up a project page as well as soon as it's kicked off

Thank you very very much, looking forward to your reply!

Hi, watkykjy...

Be prepared for some hard work, dudes!... and be patient, specially on the first steps.
As i've said in spanish to gbarrena, take a look to the tronicGr's joyrider. The inside frame has a reinforcement (two metal tubes). You can get rid of those additional tubes choosing the tubes with a little more diameter (just the tubes for the inner frame). I did it, and i can say that on those tubes relays almost all the weigth... of your body and whatever you mount on it.

The diagram on the wiki explains everything:


You can use one computer for the profiler, or let one computer run everything (there's an option in the profiler to use one core of your multi-core processor for that).

In our case, the profiler takes the data from the sender, and then send the processed data to the AMC, then the AMC sends the data to the H-Bridge who makes the motors move. So... i don't know if you see the whole picture, but in fact is something small. PC->SENDER->PROFILER->AMC->H-Bridge->Motors->AMC

There's a feedback data using the pots or whatever you use to read the motors positions.

You can start from whererever you want, but the joyrider needs more physical effort than the AMC.

Just remember about the tubes of the inner frame... and about the Joints, i couldn't find the A-A version i needed, just the A-B version. The A-A version has the same on both sides. The A-B has an input and an ouput instead of two inputs. I had to cut all the tubes facing the ouput-side of the joint becouse the length wasn't the same as for the input.

Remember that tronicGr built it with the materials availabled around his home... it won't be easy to find exatly the same as him around your place! I advice you to be prepared to apply some workarounds to get the same effect but with different parts. Imagination is the word for this proyects... or you will be stuck again and again.

Regards
Knob2001

[knob2001]

Hi!

Some updates... after a very long time. Let's see if i can finnish it on the next year!

Finally i found the belts i was looking for. The brand is optivelt, and the catalog is here:
http://www.optibelt.de/fileadmin/bilder ... DFs/VB.pdf
Those are the perfect one for my pulleys, and the best of all, they are cheap (12€ each) and very easy to find. There are a lot of different lenghts. In my case, 2735mm the longest and 2530mm the small one.



Choosing the right lenght of the belt is crucial to keep it tighten. This is how it seems in my joyrider:


So... i have both axis prepared, the pulleys, the belts, the motors mounted... but my pc broke without notice
I had to change my HD becouse bad sectors, and then, when i reinstalled everything, the x-sim2 profiler refused to load on xp3 sp3. And then... one of the data of the feedback pots dissapeared from the lcd (not 0 data, just nothing). I think there's something wrong in the 8535, but i'm a little worried becouse i've checked all the volts and they seem ok on all the pots but the second. I've tried the calibrating firmware and it shows three pots running but the second remains on 0 (blinking) This is the ATmega with the cal. firmware running: (notice the p blinking on the second pot)


For the end, just an updated picture of my project taken today. I've mount another frame to allow the Y motor be inside the tube instead the outside. Things became a little unstable the way i began, so i changed it some time later.


Some more news in following days.
Regards
knob2001

[tronicgr]

**** Thanos: Help us. This guy is following your PVC parts map (placed at your site), but the sizes are in mm when they must be in cm. He asked me about it, but the common sense says it must be cm (You can try it in milimeters, but you will get a Super-mini joyrider for your pet!!!)
****

It is mm ... but I refer to the diameter of the tubes... not the length!!!