Reproduction
The board layout can be printed 1:1 with a laser-printer on a foil. Therfor it is important to disable the automatic size adjustment in the Acrobat-Reader!
Before etching the board it is recommended to put the PIC or a PIC socket on the foil, in order to compare the pin distances.
Then the foil have to be placed on the board (the script on the foil must be readable; if not, turn the foil)
It is recommended to use BULGARD boards. Boards of other manufacturers had bad gaps in our attempts, always.
Individual parts in the part list have a Reichelt order number. Imho this is the cheapest supplier for small order sizes in Germany. www.reichelt.de
Drillings:
IC1 socket, resistors and game-port have to be drilled with 0,8 mm.
Transistors, connectors (con 2-3) and the LM7805 have to be drilled with 1 mm.
Fixing holes for the transistors and the LM7805 have to be drilled with 3 mm.
The holes for the pots are just examples. Use the size that fits in your setup. Most pots have longish pins. They have to be fixed with much tin-solder. 
Diodes and transistors:
Some additional informations regarding assembling and polarity are given here.
SMD-parts:
To solder the SMD parts a thin soldering iron and tweezers are recommended. The recommended temperature is 410degrees in order to be able to solder very fast. A magnifier and a good view is necessary as well.
USB-cable:
At the 5 meters usb cable the b-side (square connector) has to be cutted of, and the cable has to be soldered directly to the board. It has to be connected this way, because a normal usb connection could loose when the simulator is in movement The picture shows the remaining connector:
Cable configuration (referr to layout picture above):
top = black (ground)
middle = white
bottom = green
If the cable does not match the usb specs, just white and green could switch. But under no circumstances black (ground). A wrong connection normally does not cause any damage. Quartz:
The 6MHz quartz have to be placed next to the IC1 socket into the two holes, that left over (as the picture shows). Sometimes the quartz are in a metal case, but in here in the example it is blue.
The transistors and the LM7805 could be fixed with a plastic screw, but it is not necessary. Alternatively, this parts could be fixed with some superglue as well.
If you take the 5V from the USB cable, the LM7805 does not need to be assembled.
Important: Do not forget the conductor bridges! If you want to fix your pots on the board, the pots have to be screwed first on the dedicated surface before they are soldered onto the board, allways! If not, the pots might broke! Do not use force! Alternatively, the pots could be placed somewhere else, and just connected by wires to the board.
To test the assembled interface, a simple HID-write programm has to be used. Select the recognised USB Rock'n'Ride interface and enter in the lower line "03" in the first field, and "01" in the second field. This switches the relay 1.02 switches relay 2, 04->3 / 08->4 / 10->5 / 20->6 / 40->7 / 80 the relay 8. The values 03 and 00 reset the procedure. (Its recommended to try this without air pressure). Simple HIDWrite is available as a SDK from IO-Warrior or via email from me.
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Hardware 
